We set off the next day to the portinfino region to a place
called San Rocco. After checking the TomTom we realised that we were in for a 4
hour drive unless we took the toll which would halve the journey. We had been
reluctant previously to use tolls, mainly to save money but also we wanted to
make sure we actually saw as much as we could and motorways can be very
anonymous. However the toll in this case would almost pay for itself in extra
diesel and after the last couple of days driving through the small Italian
towns I couldn’t stomach another 4 hours of fighting the traffic. The toll road
was a nice relief and even offered some decent views. We ran into troubles when
we tried to exit the toll road only for our ticket to get rejected at the
automatic toll booth. The assistance over the telecom was of little assistance
rambling in Italian which is worse than our French. After a couple of minute’s
confusion the barrier opened and we claimed victory as we thought we had worn
down the Italian toll booth attendant to letting us ride the toll for free.
However the machine produced a ticket to us of 80 Euros which was for
essentially a lost ticket. After a quick email to Autostrada later that day the
situation was resolved and I was allowed to pay the 13 Euros for the actually
toll road. Lesson learnt was to press the English button before inserting the
ticket into the machine!
We walked a few miles to a place called Punta Chippa which
was a good undiscovered rocky outcrop. We carried our snorkelling gear (Fins
and all) down what was a very much downhill hike which only meant one thing on
our return and my god we underestimated how high we would have to climb back
up! Punta Chippa was a very nice little hideaway however – a few locals
sunbathing and worryingly no one in the water. After some surveying of the sea
and the area we felt it was safe enough to get in. As I was gearing up we both
witnesses what till this day we can’t decide was a Dolphin or a Tuna explode
out of the water after some Sardines a couple of meters where I was about to
jump in. This put me slightly on edge for no good reason as I would have given
an arm to have been in the water with the go pro filming to witness it. The
water was warm but I will wetsuited up as I get cold fairly quickly
snorkelling. While there was no Coral or tropical fish there were hundreds of
Sardines and some other fish to keep us entertained.
The next day we went to the town of Santa Margherita Ligure to catch a boat to some of the other areas of
the marine park not accessible by walking. We tagged along with a diving group
and after the staff could see we were well prepared with our own gear we were
left to our own devices. The captain of the boat spoke good English and kindly
told us more about the area, we also discovered he had also been at Punta
Chippa the day before when we were there. We snorkelled for a good 45 minutes.
The water was much choppier than Punta but was still good. A few bigger fish
came to say hello. Once the divers had finished we were taken to snorkel over
the statue of Jesus which was sunken 15 feet underwater. The visibility allowed
us to just see the top of the statue and with a few duck dives you could see a
little more. We spent the rest of the day exploring the town and ate out.
Our next venture was to spend the next couple of days at
Cinque Terre which translates as the 5 Terraces or 5 Lands. This was 5 remote
village carved into the rockface. The lack of accessibility to the area made it
unique and less tampered with however the tourists were there in their
thousands. Especially the Americans which we haven’t seen much of were there by
the bucket fall. The villages were lovely though with the range of colours of
the buildings it was one of the great wonders of Italy. We gained access by
train and explored 4 out of the 5 villages on day one enjoying lunchtime Pizzas
which kept us full for the rest of the day. We did another killer walk between
2 of the villages which according to the guidebook was for novice hikers which
made us feel very much like Novices. We decided to spend a 2nd day
at Cinque Terre but we wanted to get onto the water so we decided to drag the
kayak across town and onto the train. This gave us a completely tourist free
perspective of the villages and to our amazement we were able to Kayak the
whole 8 miles across the sea from the first to last village. We didn’t get in
the water much through fear of not being able to get back into the kayak
without flooding it. We did however meet a jellyfish which we were able to
capture a video of. We arrived at the last village to be greeted by a bored
lifeguard who said we couldn’t dock at his private beach. I told him it’s too
late and that we have now arrived and I got out despite his lame attempts to
turn the kayak back in the sea. He retreated with his tail between his legs as
we picked up our kayak and joined the rest of our poor lot who can’t afford to
pay for their private beach!.
We headed to Pisa the next day to provide some assistance to
a structurally unsound building. We were on our bikes most of the day as the
town is very accommodating to its 2 wheeled friends. We enjoyed ducking and
diving through the streets trying to see as much as we could. We enjoyed yet
another Foccacia which had quickly become our Italian version of the Baguettes
we were eating in France.
Exhausted from a full on 1st week in Italy we
have now driven inland to a Free Camperstop just below an medieval town called
Certaldo. The town was actually a little gem of find and we explored a couple
of Museums and took some awesome pictures. We spent the rest of our time here
chilling out, catching up with this blog, getting some clothes washed and reorganising
Pierre! Next stop is Florence.
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