Sunday, 23 July 2017

Mainland Greece - Grimaldi Ferries to Blue Star ferries



If like us you though Grimaldi was a good ferry provider then you would be wrong. Catherine decided to check online the morning before the trip what facilities were onboard. This led to reading reviews; this led to OMG what have we got ourselves in for. The reality was as bad as expected but it was better that we were prepared. Essentially the boat was a freight boat and passengers were distant afterthought. As deck passengers you hope for a comfy sofa especially with 15 hours ahead of you. Picture a working man’s club with no seating, add well prepared passengers with blow up beds sprawled along the floor. We found some airport style seating in a room at the back which normally you pay more for but there were literally no staff onboard to say anything so we found some comfort. Long story short we slept badly, gained some stiff muscles and made various attempts to get back to Pierre where we wished we just hid out in. Ah well – it’s not the journey, its the destination that matters – or is that the journey? Either way we had arrived in Greece and I (Richard) was prepared to tackle the Greek drivers.

An hour later we were at our camperstop and truth be told the drivers were far better than the Italians. They didn’t overtake around blind bends, they didn’t tailgate, when things got tight they didn’t drive straight for you – they slowed down and often gave way. This was going to take some getting used to but from what I have read having a larger vehicle would work in my favour!

We ended up staying 2 nights instead of 1 at our campsite with all the facilities and we needed a good day of planning for the Greek islands. 9 hours of solid planning later we had a few ferries booked, a few nights accommodation sorted and some hire cars booked which was a mission given we had hit peak season! Planning complete we rewarded ourselves with a beach walk which turned into a hike up a massive Sand Dune before grabbing a bite to eat at the local Taverna. These traditional style restaurants can vary in quality. 1st night there was no menu and we were simply asked what we would like to eat. A few options were listed and we happily agreed to a Salad with some Chicken fillets. 5 minutes later we were told there were no fillets but we could have leg. 5 minutes later there was no chicken at all so we had Lamb chops. 2nd night was more successful with an actual menu (handwritten) we had some Pitta Gyros – essentially a kebab. We had fallen in Love with the greek salads and the Tzatziki.

Next morning fully recovered we headed for our first real point of interest – ancient Olympia. There were several different things to see at ancient Olympia starting with the museum which was supposed to help you understand the ruins. Most of the salvageable items from the site were now in the museum and we wandered around the museum looking at the various statues and finds from the site. We then headed out into the sun to the ruins which were larger than imagined and showed various different buildings that were used for the original Olympics including the original stadium. We learnt more facts about the original Olympics including the fact women were not allowed to watch them and the range of sports played including a foot race, chariot racing and discus throwing. After about an hour in the sun walking around the huge site we decided to head to the other Olympic museum where we learnt some more about the games and their history. Feeling like total history buffs we decided we should head on to our next stop....once we decided where that would be. After a quick bit of research in a supermarket car park we had managed to book ourselves on a tour for the following day and therefore headed into the mountains for the afternoon. We found a town called Dimitsana which was perched on the top of a gorge with spectacular views. What we hadn’t realised on our way there was how high the village was (poor Pierre did struggle a little with the drive), how narrow the roads would be (luckily the Greeks dived out the way when they saw a British motorhome) and finally we didn’t realise that there would be a rally car event screeching around the narrow roads.  We found a taverna (restaurant) to park at and walked uphill to the town for a little explore where we found a lovely bar overlooking the gorge for a quick drink and we also managed to find several cats in the village to keep Rich entertained.  For the evening we headed to the Traverna for dinner where we found several kittens, puppies, cats and dogs. Rich was in his element with all the animals and I had to practically drag him away at the end of the night otherwise I was worried he would try and smuggle a few into the van.


The next morning we headed to our tour which was advertised as a rafting tour down the gorge. We arrived bang on time (as the English always do, although mum was always the exception) and got fitted for our wetsuits, helmets and met our crew mates (a French couple and a Greek couple). We then headed down to the gorge in their 4X4 before having to carry the boat to the water and receive the safety brief. It wasn’t until the brief that we realised that this would be more than a gentle paddle down the river. There were lots of instructions to remember about paddling but also about what to do if you fell overboard which was the worrying bit. We jumped in the boat anyway and off downstream we headed but a couple of minutes later the rain started, lightly at first and then it got heavier and the thunder and lightning started. Luckily for us as we were in the gorge we didn’t get soaked by the rain (the river took care of that) but the thunder and lightning were loud and impressive. Quickly on the river we hit out first patch of white water and most of us remembered the instructions as our guide yelled the orders out and we managed to come out the other side with no issues. We carried on through the gorge with several patches of white water and our guide was great at steering the boat, shouting the different commands and telling us about the gorge.  I did somehow end up in the boat several times, apparently the middle seat where Rich and I were sat is the hardest to sit on, but no one fell overboard. About halfway through the tour we stopped at an area where our guide showed us how to swim in rapids and find safety which was then followed by some mountain tea and biscuits. We continued down the rapids even going through some backwards before reaching the end of the section. Once out of the water we headed off on a little hike lead by our guide through the jungle where we found a little waterfall. On the way there a crab jumped out at me which made me jump and the guide told us that the pool we were walking in had had snakes in it the week before due to the high heat. After some posing for pictures and standing under the powerful waterfall we headed back to the van and back to the house. The tour also provided a hot lunch, with wine and ouzo, which after all that paddling was needed. We managed to get to know our crewmates a little more during lunch which was interesting as it helped us understand the current Greek situation a little more, although as usual there were a few conversation stoppers including Rich stating he is an atheist.

That afternoon we headed on towards Athens and wild camped at a beach for the night but it was over the road from a taverna that is a camper stop and one we knew we could go to if moved on. We hoped for a good night’s sleep, even though we were next to a main road but the thunder and lightning that started at 2am had other ideas. The noise from the thunder was so loud, as was the noise from the rain slamming into the motorhome from all angles and these two things meant there wasn’t any sleep in our van till it calmed down after 5am.   The next morning (a bit later than usual) we got up and headed to a ruin of a fortress high on a hill called Acrocorinth. Pierre got us up to the main entrance but we still had some climbing to do and we soon realised just how big the fortress was. It gave us great views over the area all the way to the sea and some outcrops of land. The Fortress was pretty rugged and was not over run with tourists and were managed to spot some goats, birds of prey and huge crickets. At the top of the hill there was a restored castle, although it was very small and you could not go in. There were also what appeared to be several deep dark wells on the hill that you could peer into their black abyss.

After the long walk around the fortress we headed to Athens past the Corinth canal which was pretty impressive but we only saw it quickly from the van. Our plan was to stay in a village just outside the centre of Athens as we didn’t want to try and drive the van around the city and then get the bus in. Once we arrived at the little village we found a car park to stay in for the next two nights and went for a walk to get our bearings. The village was small but had lots of places to eat and drink and the bus stop was easy to for the next day for our trip into Athens. The next morning we got up early ready for our day in the big city and headed to the bus stop ready to try and figure out the greek public transport system but apart from struggling to buy a ticket to start with we managed to get the bus and the metro into Athens. As we managed to get into the city by 7.30 we decided we could head straight to the Acropolis as this gets busy from about 9.30. The ruins are vast and we managed to see the Theatre of Dionysus before heading up to see the Parthenon and Erechtheum at the top of the hill which also gave us views all over Athens all the way to the sea. From here we could also see several of the other ruins scattered around the city and we could see how Athens spread out around the area as a concrete jungle with all the buildings looking the same. We also noticed that there was no high-rise buildings which you would normally see in a city. After marvelling at the ruins we carried on around the Acropolis seeing more ruins before heading on to the museum which showed several of the finds from the Acropolis and interesting when they had started to build the museum they had found another ancient city in the excavation and so they made most of the floors glass so you could see the ruins below. The museum also housed a lego version of the Acropolis donated by a Sydney museum.  After a couple of hours we headed out to the see the changing of the guards which was very entertaining. The Guards were dressed in gold/cream dresses with white tights and pointy white shoes with black pom-poms on the toes (just like elf shoes). To change the guards an Army major brings the two new guards over and there is a lot of shoe tapping and kicking as they walk the merry dance to change over. This happens every hour and draws quite a crowd and is over in about 10 minutes. 

We then headed to the art section of Athens to where there were hundreds of sellers of antiques and flea markets to look around interspersed with art galleries (the one we went into had an exhibition on breasts which was a little weird so we quickly exited). We saw the street where loads of lamps were stung up to illuminate the street at night and there were some quirky shops and tea rooms. There was also a very weird place called rage room where you could pay to go and destroy stuff like plates, bottles all the way to TVs. 

After a bit longer walking around the city we decided to head back, which seemed to take a lot longer than the journey here, and start preparing for our journey to Crete tomorrow. The ferry ride was a 9 hour ride but as we were not taking Pierre, he was staying in a car park in Athens, we were not able to pack the usual luxuries on the ferry such as a sleeping bag. We just hoped that the ferry was going to be better than the grim Grimaldi one

Wednesday, 19 July 2017

Greece Photos

Some of the pieces put back together at the Olympic museum


2000 year old pot handle

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Acient Olympia - well whats left of it

One of the massive flying bugs they seem to have around here

On route to the Louisis gorge

Cool narrow street in mountain top town

Our little pet for 10 minutes

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Some stunning views from the ancient Fortress






Sweatback!


Just planking around

Noisy Critters

Acroplis Thearte

View of Athens

Acroplis



The Sprawling city




Lego Acroplis


Changing of the Guard

Check out the fluffy shoes


Its hard to take a man in leggings seriously

An amercian style restaurant in the heart of Athens

Lamp City

Our Rafting Crew

Entering the mouth of the Dragon

After Rafting Shower

Sand Dunes - harder to climb then you would think!

Sand dunes worth climbing

One persistant kitten

Cat on Cat

Sometimes the Pano function works!

Saturday, 15 July 2017

Sardinia Part 2



Onwards in Sardinia

So after our restful two days at the campsite we decided to golfo aranci as there are some very nice beaches there, including some you can only get to by boat or a very long walk. As our kayak was fixed we decided that we could use that and we arrived at Cala fuli unpacked the car and hiked down to the beach. We pumped up the kayak and headed out for the 4km paddle but after we reached about 1km we realised the boat wasn’t fixed and that we needed to head back quickly. We paddled like our life depended on it (well it did really) and after a concerning 10 minutes we managed to get back to shore with a deflated kayak and an even more deflated Rich! We decided to cut our losses and have some lunch and a swim before heading off again. 

Our guide from canonying had told us about a totally natural thermal spa about an hour in land so we decided to head there next. We knew that this place was hidden somewhat from the directions given to us by the Stefano but we turned up at a gate and looked around but couldn’t see anything but  farmers fields full of cows. However there was a car parked at the bottom and as we parked another car parked as well. A little Italian man got out of the other car and headed down the path so we decided to follow him. A couple of minutes later we arrive in a field and I spot 2 other people behind some reeds and they seem to be coming towards us. We head over to the area they have just left and there behind the tall reeds is a small square pool with a sandy bottom and stone walls. The pool is about knee deep but there are large stones in there for you to sit on and once sat the water comes up to chest height.  Talking of the water, it is lovely and hot (although as it is heated by sulphur there is a slight eggy smell to it). We relax in the pool for a good twenty minutes before deciding to let the Italian (who had patiently waited for us to finish) have his go, he could have fitted in the pool with us but decided to wait until we were finished. We returned to the van and decided that it looked quiet enough to stay here the night and that way we could head back in the dark when we would really appreciate the heat of the pool. We decided it was also the perfect time to open the last bottle of champagne from France.  Over the next hour, while we sorted out the van and had dinner, a number of cars turned up and visited the spa, it was funny to watch just how popular it was and it appeared to be all ages turning up. Once it was twilight and the pool was finally quiet we headed back with our bottle of champagne and torches to the pool, it was definitely a bit creepy to start with as all you could hear were the cow bells in the distance but we soon got used to it and relaxed in the pool. The sky was quickly getting darker and the stars began to appear and it was a beautiful place to be. Once we were fully boiled we headed back to the van and to bed but little did we know that would be the end of the visits, they carried on till about 4am and then started again at about 6am. It didn’t keep us awake too much but it was amusing to find out how popular this local spot was.  

The next morning we headed south to a town called Orgosolo which is famous for its graffiti which was started as a school project by a professor at the local university in the 1970s. Over the years more murals have been added and now the town is covered in them, they are on most buildings and around most corners. Many of them have a political basis (like the one of Obama), some of them depict world events, like 9/11 and the earthquake in Aquila and some of them are just beautiful artwork.  We spent all morning walking around the town and finding the different murals and saw so many but I think it would take a couple of days to see them all. As it was soo hot and we were tired after all the walking we headed out to the local national park, seeing wild cows and horses on the way. We decided to partake in a siesta before deciding what to do next. Rich decided that he wanted to climb the highest peak in Sardinia but unfortunately (or should I say thankfully) we had driven too far south to do it. So instead we headed back to the beach where we relaxed for the evening with homemade dinner, wine and of course ice cream. 

The next morning we headed to a set of beaches called Costa Rei which I had heard were good for snorkelling. We spent the day by the sea and did get some good snorkelling in and then we did some planning for the next couple of days which included buying our ferry tickets to get to Italy and to get to Greece. The next morning we were up early for a horse ride along the beach which was lovely even if my horse decided he wasn’t going to walk at any speed. Luckily for Rich, who has never ridden before, his horse did seem to do what it was told. After an hours trek we headed on southwards to another beach called Monte Turno, for more swimming and snorkelling. After a day on the beach we headed to the area where we had booked a restaurant for the evening to see if there was anywhere we would camp. We found a small spot we could fit the camper and parked up before getting ready for dinner at another argiturismo (this one is the number 3 restaurant in all of Sardinia, according to tripadvisor). For this meal we again had so many courses it was hard to keep up but it was all delicious especially the little vegetable bites and the ravioli. We drank a fair bit of wine as we didn’t have to ride or drive anywhere and by the time we finished we could bare waddle down the road.
The next morning we headed further south again to another beach but when we turned up we saw more people going than arriving which is odd for a Sunday so we decided to walk down and see what was going on. We soon found out why people were leaving, it appeared that someone was doing work on the beach which meant there were huge piles of sand and some seaweed piled up. We decided to get back in the car and head further south to Porto Giunco which is backed by a lake habited by more of the pink flamingos. We spent the morning on the beach, swimming and snorkelling before deciding to head the 3km to the nearest town on bikes to get some food. We managed to find a cafe for lunch and even managed to watch the beginning of the F1 before heading for ice cream and then riding back to the beach for the afternoon. Finally we got back in the van and headed south to a beach where we could sleep for the evening. 

The next morning, our last in Sardinia we headed to a beach about halfway to Cagliari for the morning before we had to head to the main city and board the boat for the mainland. This would be another 13 hour overnight trip but hopefully we are more prepared this time. We have food, sleeping bags and pillows, games and warm clothes. I think we over-packed (we have 4 bags between the two of us) but better to be safe than sorry!  

Monday, 10 July 2017

Sardinia Part 2 Photos

Some Wild Horses on our way inland through Sardinia

The pigs at the farm where we rode horses

Our horses (well not ours)

Our bottomless wine

Mari Pintua - our last Sardinian beach

Finally getting round to our Champagne at the secret Thermal pool

The local thermal pool in the middle of nowhere

Stary night in the mountains

Orgosolo - the fall of Baghdad

Twin Towers









The view from the top of orgosolo



Kayaking on the golf Aranci

One of many Caves!

Snorkelling somewhere, snorkelling everywhere 




Back to the pool before dark



Us and our Ponies